Ariège-Pyrénées is the ‘other’ south of France, still relatively unknown even to the French. It’s a rural and sparsely populated department: an area of outstanding natural beauty and laid back charm.

The Ariège is just about as far south as you can go and still be in France (we’re farther south than Nice) and is bordered by Spain and Andorra. There are just six main towns (the largest of which has a population of just over 15,000), many small villages and hamlets, and some of the most breathtaking scenery in the country. The Pyrenees are rarely out of sight and form a stunning backdrop all over the department, with the highest peaks rising to around 3000 metres. 

Our farmhouse, home of Pyrenees Retreats, is in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Pyrénées Ariégeoises, in the pays known as the Séronais. Crossroads of the old territories of Gascony and Languedoc, this is lush, rolling, gently wooded pastureland, rising rapidly to beech forested mountain foothills. Our central location means that by car you can reach the high peaks in 30 minutes (though as the crow flies they’re only a few kilometres away!), and pretty much anywhere in the department in less than an hour.

As you might imagine it’s perfect for Slow walking, with many kilometres of well marked paths including a variant of the St Jacques de Compostelle pilgrim path, which passes just a few minutes from Grillou. A Voie Verte (green road) has been created from an old railway track and now links Foix with St Girons, passing through our village of Rimont, and offers easy walking or cycling with lovely views. You can swim, sunbathe on the beach or just contemplate the sunlight on the water at the gorgeous Lac de Mondély close by; visit (and drive through!) prehistoric caves; walk to dolmens; or take a boat trip on the longest underground river in Europe. Or you can just settle with a picnic by a river or at one of the many viewpoints or mountain cols and lose yourself in the fantastic views. 

Medieval cités such as Mirepoix and St Lizier, Cathar castles at Montsegur and Roquefixade, some lovely Romanesque churches, and authentic bastide towns and villages are all on your doorstep. There are extensive prehistoric sites, including some of the most extensive caves in Europe (with amazing cave art too). You can walk or climb in the high mountains; go canoeing, riding or hang gliding; and spend a couple of hours in a thermal spa.

The bird, animal, and plant life here is exceptional, with many species being specific to the area. Black and red kites, buzzards and the occasional short-toed eagle regularly hunt over Grillou, and there are several easily accessible spots where you can see vultures and golden eagles. Marmots and isards (chamois) are abundant in the high mountains; closer to home you may spot a red squirrel, stone marten, deer or wild cat in or around our grounds along with the fifty-plus varieties of butterflies that fill our air from early spring to late autumn.

Ariège has a more open, alternative and eco feel than many other French departments, largely due to the number of people who have, over the last thirty years or so, opted out of lives elsewhere and moved here to come closer to the earth and live more consciously. As a result, there are many small organic and biodynamic food producers and alternative practitioners of various kinds and an amazing variety of arts, crafts and traditional and world music. We have some of the best festivals in France, and just up the road in our neighbouring village of Clermont is a café associatif that holds regular music gigs.